Unique & exclusive high fashion sewing patterns for dressmaking divas and fashion-obsessed sewers

Fitting Tips

...how do I get a good fit?...

...the short answer is, make a muslin, make a muslin, make a muslin!...

...yes, we know it's a bore when you want to make that garment *right now*..and if we're being honest, we *loathe* making muslins too...but it's really the best way to get a great fitting garment...

...a muslin is basically a test garment, usually made in muslin (hence the name), although in the case of knit styles or a style that needs a fabric with a specific drape, it may be better to make your 'muslin' in a fabric with the same or similar qualities as your 'real' fabric...

does wearing the right accessories during fitting matter?

...oh yes indeedy!

...if you wear the *right* underwear-by which we mean, the bra and briefs you plan to wear with that particular garment-you'll get a much better result...you'd be *amazed* at the differences between bras and the different shapes they can give you! also, and especially for pants, skirts & dresses, to make sure you get both the proportions and the length right, we really do recommend that you fit your garment with the shoes you plan to wear with it...

...how do I make a pattern longer or shorter?

...to make your pattern shorter or longer, add or subtract length about 1" above and/or below where you need the extra/less length...

...don't just add to or chop off the hem!

...how do i make my pattern bigger or smaller?

...our patterns are multisized, which means that you have a range of sizes all 'nested' together...

...so let's say that you're making a skirt, and your waist is a size 14, but your hips are more of a size 16. well this one is easy, you just *blend* the cutting lines, from a 14 at the waist to a 16 at the hips. onbiously, the same theory applies if you want to make your pattern smaller...

...what about 'tissue fitting'?

...well, we know lots of sewers who love to do what's called 'tissue fiting', and if you're one of them, and you get great results, we say, do whatever works for you!...

...'tissue fitting' means that you pin together the tissue or paper pattern and fit that on your dressform...

...but we have to say, in all honesty, that we're not really feeling the love for this method...

...why? because paper or tissue just doesn't behave in the same way as fabric! you'll get a *rough idea* of the fit, but if you want a great fit (instead of a good-enough fit) then it's a muslin you need!...